WHITE IS THE NEW BLACK
Estamos acostumbrados a que el negro sea nuestro color de fondo de armario pero parace ser que este año el blanco le está tomando ventaja. Todos sabemos que no es un color fácil ya que hay que saber combinarlo bien y sobretodo, para conseguir un look elegante el diseño y tejido de las prendas deben ser de buena calidad.
En invierno, para conseguir un buen total look white lo mejor es mezclar diferentes texturas y combinarlo con buenos accesorios. Hemos podido ver en las pasarelas que, de cara a la primavera/verano, muchos diseñadores que han propuesto el blanco en sus colecciones completan los looks con calzado plateado. Aquí van algunos ejemplos!
We are used to black being the predominant colour in our wardrobe, but this year white seems to be taking advantage over it. Everybody knows that it isn’t the easiest colour because you must know how to combine it well and above all, garments and fabrics must be of good quality if we want to get an elegant outfit.
In winter, to get a stylish all-in-white total look what is best is to mix different textures and combine them with good accessories. We have seen on the catwalks that for the spring / summer season, many designers have proposed in their collections complete white total looks combined with silver shoes. Here you have some examples!
DKNY - SS 2013
Ania Ortiz de Arri
MEN TREND REPORT: BOW TIES & CRAVATES
I was in Berlin two weeks ago for the fashion week and I realized that I was more often shooting guys than girls. And, not only that, I would say Japanese guys are always the most trendy ones. Always elegant, modern and with a relaxed attitude about the clothes they’re wearing.
Among the photos I’ve recollected, there’s one common accessory in most of them: ties. I’ve never been a huge fan of them but combining them with the right outfit, they can give the right final touch to it.
Ania Ortiz de Arri
THE TRENCH COAT
Fue a finales de la década de 1870 cuando Thomas Burberry, en busca de un tejido resistente y duradero, encontró el algodón egipcio de trama muy cerrada. Decidió tratarlo con un proceso de impermeabilidad y anti-rozaduras, convirtiéndolo así en el tejido de la gabardina y haciendo posible su uso en todas las épocas del año.
Hasta el día de hoy, la gabardina ha sufrido muchas modificaciones y su aspecto ha ido metamorfoseándose a lo largo de todos estos años adecuándose así a las tendencias y al gusto de los diversos directores creativos de las grandes marcas.
Este invierno se vuelven a ver en la calle en diferentes formas y tejidos, aunque mis favoritas son las de tejidos brillantes combinadas con stilettos para conseguir un look muy Catherine Deneuve en Belle de Jour (vestuario diseñado por YSL en 1967). Os dejo unas fotos a modo de inspiración.
Ya de cara al verano que viene, me encantó la colección que propuso Christopher Bailey (diseñador creativo de Burberry Prorsum) el pasado septiembre en la fashion week de Londres: gabardinas de colores chillones en telas metálicas combinadas con bolsos de plástico.
Christopher Bailey para Burberry Prorsum ss2013
Catherine Deneuve en Belle de Jour de Luis Buñuel (1967), vestuario diseñado por YSL
THE SHORT SLEEVE SWEATER
It’s time to take out your winter wardrobe and maybe make some alterations so that we stay trendy this winter. In the past, we’ve had to take our trousers in or shorten them to the ankle. Now we have to do the same to our sweaters.
Angora sweaters will come out in full force this winter, they will be shorter and narrower than usual, and with shorter sleeves.
As for colours: red and green are the IT shades, but we’ll keep watching pastel colours too. Pair them with a classic pencil skirt or with the basic skinny jeans for a more casual look.
These sweaters show off your forearms so it’s the perfect excuse to pair them with lots of gold bracelets, another sure-fire hit this winter, or with long leather gloves for colder days!
Es hora de sacar la ropa de invierno y quizá hacer unos arreglos para estar al día esta temporada. Si no se quiere cambiar por completo el armario, a veces nos ha tocado estrechar los pantalones o acortarlos hasta hacerlos tobilleros pero esta vez le toca el turno a los jerséis.
Los jerséis de angora llegan con fuerza este invierno, vienen más estrechos y cortos que las temporadas pasadas y con manga ¾ o corta. En cuanto a los colores, el rojo y el verde vienen son tendencia pero también se siguen viendo los tonos pastel.
La mejor manera de combinarlos es con una clásica falda tubo o bien con unos pitillo, para un estilo más casual.
Estos jerséis dejan el antebrazo al descubierto por lo que mi consejo es combinarlos con pulseras y guantes de cuero largos!
Rochas Spring/Summer 2013:
Ania Ortiz de Arri
FASHION ACCORDING TO ANIA: An Interview to Ariadna, the designer of “About Arianne Shoes”
Until now we talked about jewels, sunnies, garments and today it’s time for shoes. I had the pleasure to interview Ariadna, the designer of ‘About Arianne Shoes‘. She’s young, she knows what she wants and she has loads of fans all around the world. “I sell more outside than in Spain,” says Ariadna. We can find her shoes on Whistles UK, Need Supply (USA), Hong Kong, Italy and New Zealand.
So, tell me…how was About Arianne born and grown?
I finished my studies in fashion design 5 years ago and I was already interested in shoe design, but it wasn’t until I spent a whole summer in London when I realized that shoes were my thing.
When I came back to Spain, I started working for Sacha London at Elda, where there’s the most important shoe fabrics of Spain. After some time at the enterprise, they asked me to design a young line for Sacha London and it turned out that it didn’t fit because of the differences between the styles.
I decided then that it was time to put all my energy into my own project, and that’s how About Arianne started two years ago.
What’s your philosophy?
I want to make timeless shoes; I like to stay within the same style line always. I like to have some basic and classic models and then modify them every season for the different collections. When people see my model of shoes, I want them to recognize the shoes as About Arianne.
Explain to me the manufacturing process of a shoe model, from the inspiration until you have them on your feet.
I get the inspiration from everywhere; it can be a clip or even a girl that I come across on the street (I have sometimes even stopped a person to take a photo of their shoes!). After the inspiration comes the designing, I start making sketches and I go afterwards to Elda, where the fabric is and have a long talk with the pattern specialist to decide what’s possible and what’s not. Once decided, we make the first prototype and here is where all the final changes are made. I always try them on, see if they’re confortable, if they fit well, if the colors match well… I even smell them to see if the leather is treated properly! Personally, I hate to wear shoes that smell badly.
After making the right changes, we send them to manufacture.
Which are the essential requirements that About Arianne shoes must fulfill?
In three words: design, quality and comfort, are equally important requirements.
Name one of your favorite shoe designer:
I love Robert Clergerie’s designs and philosophy. He always follows the same style, classic, but he reinvents himself in a trendy way. As in the same way as American Apparel does with the garments, creating basics and modifying them with new colors, little changes on the cut, etc.
Now that we’re talking about garments, with what kind of garments would you combine About Arianne?
I’m a fan of Miu Miu and Prada as big brands and also American Apparel, with whom I feel really identify with. I think they fit perfectly to About Arianne shoes. I always love how people combine my shoes; every time I see more and more girls wearing them in festivals such as Primavera Sound and I love the way they wear them…for example, with high-waisted skinny trousers.
Let’s talk about your customers now, for whom do you design? Who wears About Arianne?
In the beginning I started designing for my friends and little by little the public grew. I design for girls like me, I do what I would wear and I would like to grow and evolve with the same public I have now. Normally they’re girls that listen to the same music as me and are interested in the same kind of things. It’s kind of a circle. Music inspires me and people inspire me, and then those girls wear About Arianne to go to concerts where I’m also going.
Wow! It seems that everything is connected. It’s time to talk then about the protagonist of your last lookbook…!
Yes! (Laughs) She’s Hanna Hunt, the singer of the American indie-pop group Dominant Legs. We proposed her to be the face of our new campaign and she got excited about it! That was awesome!
Congratulations! Lately, you have started on the men’s market…how is it going?
I just made two basic models so; there weren’t a lot of different choices. The truth is that I felt almost obligated to create them because my friends asked me. But, for the next seasons, these two models will be the classics About Arianne for man and from them I will make variations.
Talking about the future, what are your next projects?
I’m now working on the summer 2013 collection and I am also opening an About Arianne Store in Barcelona in September, I hope to see you at the opening!
Both good news! I’ll definitely be there! Can you tell me a little about your summer 2013 collection?
I’m exploring new generation fabrics and I will use one that’s like suede but more resistant and water proof!
Sounds great! I’m looking forward to seeing them! Thank you and Ariadna good luck with your future! Just one last thing, where is your favorite place for a coffee break?
My boyfriend just opened a coffee place, it’s called Satan’s Coffee Corner and the coffee is just delicious!
I hope you enjoyed it my lovely readers, and maybe you should start planning a trip to Barcelona in September to make the shopping tour and attend the fabulous events that will take place!
PLASTIC IS FUNTASTIC!
Las tendencias futuristas dan paso al plástico como textura clave tanto para este verano como para el otoño que viene. Ya sea en accesorios o en prendas, han sido varios los diseñadores que han presentado esta tendencia en las pasarelas, siendo uno de los más representativos Marc Jacobs. Para aquellos que sean un poco reticentes al plástico en las prendas, por ser un material sintético y que no transpira, una buena alternativa puede ser el charol.
MARC JACOBS Spring 2012
CHANEL Spring 2012
Paule Ka Spring 2012
THE SHOW MUST GO ON
El estilo ecléctico de inspiración gipsy-cirquense es tendencia para el invierno que viene. Resalta la mezcla de tejidos, prints y texturas, y el uso de múltiples capas. Las rayas verticales, el tartan y el uso de pieles también son buenos aliados para conseguir el look cirquense. En el pelo, ahora más que nunca, el “tye dye hair” es tendencia.
HOUSE OF HOLLAND Resort 2013
MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF FALL 2012
FASHION ACCORDING TO ANIA: AN INTERVIEW WITH ALEXIS REYNA
Hola a todo el mundo! How is the Summer going? Here in Barcelona the city buzzing as we are getting ready for our fashion week, taking place from 10th to 13th July.
Last year, the city awarded native Barcelonian Alexis Reyna “Best Designer” of the Season and it is my pleasure to interview for Your Coffee Break this multi-faceted designer who, besides doing fashion also illustrates and writes poetry.
Alexis is a true creative, his work is unique and inspired. His designs are a combination of visual arts and garment creation, which, fused with expolsive colours has carved him the reputation of being unpredictable and rebellious.
After living in Asia for three years and graduating from Londons prestigiuos Saint Martins University with a Masters in Womenswear, Alexis established his own fashion brand, Alexis Reyna in 2008. His striking pieces have attracted many admirers including singer M.I.A. After specialising in womenswear for many years he now also incorporates men’s fashion into his collections.
Alexis has also been passing his fashion know-how to aspiring designers, teaching in schools suchs as IDEP or Felicidad Duce which are both in Barcelona. This talented designer has also previously been part of the creative department of Filippa K. and J. Lindeberg in Stockholm and for the spanish brand Desigual.
It’s normal to expect the unexpected from Alexis, the first time I attended one of his catwalks, I felt an explosion of feelings and emotions and was left in awe of his collection which featured different and wonderful textures, colors and patterns. Alexis has a rare talent of maintaining public intrigue and does so in an unusual way.
Here are some photos from his collection Fall/Winter 2012-2013: HOT SHADE, as you will see they speak for themselves. The mixture of cold and warm colors on sublime fabrics are reminiscent of the oriental world.
When was the first time you knew that you wanted to make it in fashion? How did your passion begin?The first time I knew was when I saw the film Emmanuelle. The passion is unconscious it’s something almost sexual. In a practical way, I opted for being self-taught.
In what situations do you feel the most creative…what do you do to be in a creative mood? Do you have any special rituals to get into the creative mindset?
The truth is that everything inspires me in a way… But there are no special situations. What I like, is to isolate myself from the rest and the others.
What gave you the strength to keep on going when you found obstacles?
I don’t know, I always think that I can achieve everything I propose to myself. I like to fight for the things I believe in.
There are always high expectations of your designs and you never seem to fail to meet these. To achieve such a result, you need help. Is it difficult for you to delegate tasks?
Through experience, I have had to do most part of the whole thing on my own. But, it’s true that for the technical part you need to have a good team. But even with a good team, it’s hard to delegate.
Do you believe your style has changed since you began your career? In retrospect, what do you think about your early creations now?
I have definitely changed. I think more about objectively about things. I very much enjoy what I do, I love to expore and consolidate my work. I try to find a balance between the routine and the anarchy. In fact, I don’t think a lot about my first works, I live deeply in the present. I will reflect on the past when my light goes off, however, if I have to say something right now, I’m proud of what I have done. I think my early work was honest and that’s enough for me. It reflects my personality.
What are you working on now?
I am working on my new collection Spring/Summer 013 A KIND OF CELEBRATION. I have also created a mini collection of women and men shoes , Alexis Reyna.
Where do you like taking your coffee break?
In the bed.
Be sure to keep an eye on Alexis Reyna as he is sure to make waves in the fashion world.
I hope you enjoyed!
Posted on http://www.yourcoffeebreak.co.uk/
Nunca han llegado a desaparecer pero, según la época y a través de los años, los turbantes han ido cambiando su forma y la manera de llevarlos. Sencillos, con abalorios o lazos en la parte frontal, con plumas o bien de inspiración tribal…todo vale este verano. Aunque, yo recomiendo apostar por el estilo tribal, creando tu propio turbante con telas de colores, acompañándolos con maxi collares y gafas redondas.
Si se prefiere un estilo más clásico, el mejor aliado son las gafas en forma de ojo de gato.
Anna Sui - Spring 2012
Ania Ortiz de Arri
THE PERFECT PHOTOSHOOT
I must say that even if I recognize myself as a fan of PRADA, I’m a bit tired of all those 50’s looking photoshoots with rockabilly cars, where the model is wearing ONLY Prada, pastel colors and victory rolls.
That’s why I found the following photoshooting amazing. It’s Andrew Yee’s latest story for Bullett Magazine, with Erin Wasson styled by Melissa Rubini.
The keys: dark lips, ombre hair, tango shoes, cross necklace, tie dye trousers, short tops, aztec prints, turbans and cat eyed sunglasses.
Ania Ortiz de Arri
Hedvig Palm by Marcus Ohlsson for Bon Magazine #61